BY-SA 4.0 International Jakub Hałun/Wikimedia CommonsSanta Maria del Popolo might seem like an unassuming church on the outside, but it holds artistic treasures from the likes of Caravaggio and Raphael within. From its legendary origin story to its prime location on one of the most popular piazzas in Rome, this basilica won’t fail to impress.
Highlights
What to See & Do (Pictures)
Although the exterior of the church may be a little subdued compared to other Roman churches, the interior holds exquisite treasures. The chapels are undoubtedly the highlights of any visit. Here are some of the best of them below.
The Chigi Chapel
e55evu/DepositphotosThe Chigi Chapel is probably the most famous chapel in the basilica. It was designed by Renaissance master Raphael for his friend and patron, the banker Agostino Chigi. He’s interred here in an unusual pyramidal tomb, also designed by Raphael.
Unfortunately, work on the chapel was interrupted in 1520 by the untimely deaths of both Raphael and Chigi and was only completed a century later by Bernini at the request of Pope Alexander VII, who also belonged to the Chigi family.
Raphael made the sketches for the mosaics of the dome and designed two of the statues of the prophets (Jonah and Elijah) in the niches of the chapel, but they were all completed by other artists. The other two prophet statues were designed by Bernini.
The Cerasi Chapel
BY 2.0 Generic Frederick Fenyvessy/FlickrThe Cerasi Chapel contains two masterpieces by Caravaggio: The Crucifixion of St. Peter and The Conversion of St. Paul. They were commissioned in 1600 by the owner of the chapel, Tiberio Cerasi, who was treasurer to Pope Clement XVII.
Caravaggio’s signature use of chiaroscuro is on full display here, and the two paintings face each other, charging the chapel with an intense atmosphere.
At the same time as the Caravaggio commission, Cerasi also employed renowned artist Annibale Carracci to paint the altarpiece, which depicts The Assumption. This is displayed between the two Caravaggio’s and also shows Sts. Peter and Paul, this time looking up at the Virgin in amazement.
The Della Rovere Chapel
BY-SA 4.0 International Livioandronico2013/Wikimedia CommonsThis chapel was built for the Della Rovere clan in the 15th century. They were a family from the northwest of Italy who made their fortune in Rome. It’s dedicated to St. Jerome and to the Nativity.
The frescoes in the lunettes depict scenes from the life of St. Jerome, and they are certainly worth a look, but the real draw to the chapel is the magnificent altarpiece of The Adoration of the Child by the Renaissance artist Pinturicchio.
In it, baby Jesus lies in front of the hut of the Nativity while the Holy Family, together with St. Jerome and the shepherds, adore him. In the distance, a city can be seen on the banks of a river with bluish mountains behind it. Pinturiccio, though a master, is struggling a bit with the proper use of perspective, as can be seen by his depiction of the figures in the background.
How to Get There
Santa Maria del Popolo is located on the north side of Piazza del Popolo, one of Rome’s most visited squares. It’s easily accessible by both public transport and on foot from other hotspots in Rome.
- Metro: Line A – Flaminio
- Bus: Lines 88, 95, 117, 119, 490, 495 and 926 all stop nearby.
- Tram: Line 2 – Piazzale Flaminio
Map & Address (Location)
Santa Maria del Popolo
Piazza del Popolo, 12, 00187 Roma RM, Italy · Google Maps
Did You Know That: 5 Interesting Facts
- Santa Maria del Popolo has the oldest stained glass windows in Rome. They were designed by French artist Guillaume de Marcillat in 1509.
- There is some debate as to the origin of the name ‘Popolo’. It originates from the Latin word ‘populus’, which can mean either ‘of the people’ or ‘poplar trees’. Apparently, the church was constructed by the desire of the people of Rome, but it was also built in an area that used to be covered by a forest of poplars.
- Some say that the church is still haunted to this day by the ghost of Emperor Nero and that the nearby residents are plagued by evil spirits.
- In 1511, Protestant reformer Martin Luther stayed in the monastery adjacent to the church on his visit to Rome, as he was a former Augustinian friar.
- The church is featured in the bestselling novel by Dan Brown, Angels & Demons, the prequel to The Da Vinci Code.
History
Santa Maria del Popolo rose from dark legend to become one of Rome’s most beautiful Renaissance churches. Its story begins with an emperor’s curse and transforms into a treasure trove of masterpieces by Raphael, Caravaggio, and Bernini.
Legend
Emperor Nero was supposedly buried at this site at the base of the Pincian Hill. A haunted walnut tree grew from his grave, where crows said to be demons would roost.
1099
To end the legend, Pope Paschal II threw Nero’s ashes in the Tiber, cut down the tree, and built a Romanesque chapel in its place.
1235
Pope Gregory IX enlarged the church and consecrated it to Our Lady Mary.
1235-1250
The church was initially run by Franciscans, but in 1250 they were replaced by Augustinian friars who founded a monastery next door.
1472-1478
Pope Sixtus IV ordered the church and monastery to be rebuilt, making it one of Rome’s first Renaissance churches.
1527
The church was pillaged and damaged during the Sack of Rome. During the subsequent renovation, Raphael decorated the Chigi Chapel and Bramante restored the choir.
1600
Pope Alexander VII commissioned Gian Lorenzo Bernini to restore parts of the façade and interior, giving the church a more Baroque appearance.
1800s
During the complete renovation of Piazza del Popolo, the monastery was torn down and rebuilt on a much smaller scale.
Present day
Santa Maria del Popolo is a functioning church loved by locals and tourists alike. People come to attend mass, get married, or admire its beautiful artworks.
FAQs
Where are the Caravaggio paintings in Santa Maria del Popolo?
Both hang in the Cerasi Chapel: The Crucifixion of St. Peter and The Conversion of St. Paul. They face each other across the chapel, so you can take in Caravaggio’s dramatic light and shadow from a single spot. The altarpiece between them, The Assumption, is by Annibale Carracci.
Do you need tickets for Santa Maria del Popolo?
No. The basilica is free to enter. It is a working church, so visits pause during Mass and you are expected to dress and behave respectfully inside.
What are the opening hours of Santa Maria del Popolo?
Weekday visiting hours generally run from morning to early evening, with the doors closed during Mass. Hours shift on weekends and feast days, so check the times listed on this page before you set out.
What are the Mass times at Santa Maria del Popolo?
Mass times vary by day and season, with separate weekday, weekend, and feast-day schedules. For the current timetable, check the official basilica website close to your visit so you can plan around or join a service.
What is the Chigi Chapel?
It is the most famous chapel in the basilica, designed by Raphael for the banker Agostino Chigi, who is buried here under an unusual pyramid-shaped tomb. Raphael died in 1520 before it was finished, and Bernini completed the work roughly a century later for Pope Alexander VII, a member of the same Chigi family.
Where is Santa Maria del Popolo?
It stands on the north side of Piazza del Popolo, one of Rome’s busiest squares, at the northern edge of the historic center. The closest Metro stop is Flaminio on Line A.